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Im having this issue and to see the freat lenghts people go to make a chevy engine is crazy, im used to Toyotas v8 that dont need any knowledge or attention for 300k miles

Run it for 500 hours under load and get back to us.

I'm glad there are options ($-$$$) for people, however, please look into available repair parts before you purchase any small engine product.

Please Help!! Is it possible to replace the lifters without removing the heads?

Great vid! All I've been able to find is complete manifold swaps but I think the little donut seal is my real issue. Just wanted to know how much wiggle room I'd have or if I needed to keep going down the pipe unbolting everything. Would you or anyone recommend any type of paste or gasket material to help seal up and prevent failures?

Thank you so much for this, you have no idea how exciting it is to find the tear down of the exact same year and model of my jeep! I may have had a bit too much fun in some water and I am part of the way through the tear down and wanted an idea on how deep i could go without fully pulling the engine. Fingers crossed that i can skip the pistons all together.

I owe you a beer… I’ve referenced these videos countless times over the past few weeks as I’ve dug into a used JK I picked with high oil consumption. Wouldn’t have been able to do it without ya. Thank you very much for putting this series together 👍🍻

What size was the belt, tia

Thanks for the video. What model is this RZR you are working on?

Thanks for this information.

Thanks so much for your Jeep JK video series. I'm removing the heads today and your vids have been enormously helpful.

Thanks for the video! I changed mine out today and you made it pretty easy. The little thing that holds the choke fell out when I took off the carb. I had NO idea what it hooked to or how it went back in. Came in, pulled up your video and saw where you hooked it to the choke. Worked great. Thanks!

I have this series saved. Going to be top or bottom on my jeep soon. I don't own my own torque wrench yet. How many ft /lbs do you think I'd need to do most anything on the jeep?

Thanks! Just the video I was looking for!

I wish that you had included installing the push rods and rockers before the valve cover. Is there a special process for installing them? Did you use assembly lube? Or did you completely smother them in oil like i see other people do online? Thanks for the vids

Did the truck smoke when cranking?

Nicely done

Hold old is your daughter to be in the bump seat? my guy is only 2 but want to take him out with us!

On the beginning picture, when it says all accessories to the fuse box does that mean the actual access or the rocker switch?

So are the valves self adjusting or do I adjust them and if they do need to be adjusted I’d like to know how

Good vid bro.

A king in the wild, thanks you tube lawnmower carburetor daddy!

I did both of these and my five point three still consumes way too much oil. New chevy's are just plain junk.

Great video. thanks a bunch.

Have a link to the compressor? I’ve been looking for one with no luck.

Thank you!

I think i need to change mine too. I have rear end sway when i go over bumps in the road.

0:08 Before 5:30 After

Great video helps a lot

You changed only the driver side or both valve covers?

I came to this video because I’m in the process of identifying where my tick is coming from. Allot of people say lifters and rocker arms. Everywhere on RUclips I’m only seeing people fix that issue on the 3.6 but none on the 3.8. To me they look totally different what would I replace that whole shaft arm?

Is the driver side (thinner one) directional?

Thanks a lot for you’re video Brother Hopefully that was the issue you made it so much easier for me 👍🏻🤟🏻

This is probably pisted somewhere but want to know what is the difference between the original cover and the new style and can the pvc valve be replaced when needed on the new cover?

I know this is old but you do realize there is a spinning shaft and hot coolant lines in that tunnel. I run wire through it all the time but I pull covers and zip tie to the loom. Seems like a bad idea without pulling the covers off. Or am I just paranoid?

Thanks first time I learned about it even having gaskets. I'm replacing the flange gasket on my 05 f150 4.6 xl . I didn't know which way it goes because the stock cats didn't have any to begin with. Thanks a bunch

Do you need to disconnect battery first?

Where can I find new rings for the ttr90. Looked everywhere they only sell oversize or the 125cc. Please help

I can't believe no mension of the engine size. On my 2005, 3.5L I'm going to drill out my old valve cover as recomended by several videos. None of them mension the new valve cover showing a new square vent hole to the right of the old hole.

by chance do u have a torque link..etc?

when doing the 90 extra tighten dont yard on it like u are ..slow and steady

I just used this video yesterday and it helped as far as taking the old cover off and putting the new one on. It took me about an hour to do it. I have a 2011 Silverado when I took the old one off I didn’t see a difference compared to this new one. As far as the oil consumption I’ll come back in about a month too see if this made a difference

I had smoke at start up in my 2007 5.3 and this fixed it. Ordered the valvecover from Amazon and installed in less than an hour and two beers ;) Thank you so much for posting.

The factory valve covers and pcv system is absolutely fine. Perfect even. I successfully use it on 02-07 Gen3/4 LM7/L33/etc... forced inducted engine with over 200,000 miles 600rwhp 800rwhp 1000rwhp no issues. The problem is people have no idea how the PCV system actually works. For example nobody understands the relationship between crankcase pressure and oil droplet radius/density. People are clueless. At wide open throttle the factory paper air filter element procures a pressure drop of approx 0.9"Hg to 1.8"Hg depending on mileage which pulls the crankcase pressure down to about 0.5"Hg to 1"Hg which is perfect, you can go 200k miles with no issues like that. The problem is when people don't maintain the PCV lines or they modify the air filter or they add a catch can (it takes energy to drive fluids through hoses and added length is added friction which kills pressure gradient raising crankcase pressure) and these lead to large oil droplets, high oil density, it kills PCV action and ruins the factory oil/air separator's kinetic energy input which causes oil to blow out of the engine and deposits forming as light hydrocarbon chains leave behind and circulate hard diamond-like and sticky tar-like carbon conglomerates which lead to eventual wear and failure. Yes I am a doctor of mechanical engineering and I've been tuning hundreds of turbocharged daily drivers since the 90's so this is part experience and part education talking. If you want to actually control the PCV system you must learn to measure the crankcase pressure. There is a DIY How-TO Video in my channel where I show you how to do it using a 1-bar map sensor and 5v source on my 5.3L Turbo 600rwhp application using a stock 240,000 miles piece of junk engine with absolute perfection success on the OEM Gen3 covers.

Great job with this. Super informative!

Do you have a parts listed anywhere?

excellent video bud. question,, i just bought the gal. but its the t6 5/40 but it also says diesel engines on the container.. is that what your using?

Thank you for the video, I did it and it worked! Only thing you forgot to say is when you are taking the control module out (the thing attached to the ribbon) there are 3 screws at the bottom that have to come out. Thanks again!

I did the updated cover still smoked….. pulled new cover back off and drilled holes and problem solved no more oil consumption